Entertaining As Art, Country Weekends

 

     When I was growing up in the late 60s and 70s “having company” was normal, looked upon with enthusiasm, expected on a regular basis and prepared for with gladness. And company regularly showed up completely unannounced yet Mom was always gracious and usually prepared, and if not she happily, quickly and quietly went about making a thoughtful plate or two of food and put the coffee pot on to brew. I swear she could whip up a coffee cake in five minutes flat and pop it in the oven without so much as a blink of the eye! Before long it’s heavenly fragrance would be filling the room and guests felt special and welcome. 

     A popular comedian today actually talks about our very different attitude towards company in his routine; how now, when the door bell rings, everyone drops and whispers as they search for weapons hidden under the sofa and attempt to figure out who would have the audacity to just drop in. Heaven forbid! Personally, I miss having company. 

     Of course with the Covid pandemic visiting is not an option. We are solitary save for our pets, immediate family and Zoom meetings. Lately we have been discussing the Danish tradition of hygge in my spiritual community. It is a lifestyle of bringing a feeling of coziness and contentment to your home where others feel welcomed and cared for, in other words it’s a relaxed and informal form of entertaining where you desire your loved ones and friends to feel nurtured simply and with love. And if there was ever a time that we as individuals need to feel nurtured and cared for it is now. The skills of hygge need not be just for company, treat your self this way as well. It adds beauty, mindfulness and gratitude to your days.

     My Mom, referred to lovingly by her nickname Bean, loved people and loved entertaining. Her vast cookbook collection took up a whole room. Her kitchen and dining room hutch and cabinets were full of antique platters and serving bowls, glassware, many sets of dishes to suit any type of meal, pieces that were lovely not fussy, antique silver and pewter, table clothes and napkins, and an array of pitchers in all sizes which was her vase of choice with flowers plunked in casually. As a child I was taught how to properly set a table from informal to formal settings. And Bean taught all of her three children, boys included, how to cook. This blog is dedicated to her memory and here I share my memories of her, a cookbook from her collection and one recipe from that book, one that I’ve never tried. Bean was a food explorer, ever curious. She was always trying new recipes and new cuisines. She had a full cabinet (and a drawer) of herbs and spices and she was a master of seasoning. Always try, be open to trying new things, you never know what you will discover.

     I chose “Country Weekends” by John Tovey (1933-2018) for this post. Tovey was an English restauranteur and hotelier, author, celebrity chef and all around character by the sounds of it...he and Bean would have had a ball together. This cookbook was published by Ebury Press London in 1988. Chapters include; Breakfasts & Brunches; Light Lunches, Picnics & Barbecues; Afternoon Teas; High Teas; Suppers; Dinners; and Edible Gifts. It is full of beautiful photographs of relaxed settings and lovely food and his philosophy on entertaining. Again John and Bean were of like mind when it came to entertaining, it should be relaxing for both guest and host/hostess, the food should be plentiful and delicious, seasonal is best, and you must have a plan. As he says (and Bean did as well) “entertaining is an art...an art that can be learned” it takes planning and forethought. The more organized you are the easier it will be in the long run. 

     One recipe in particular caught my eye as it was quite different in preparation, sounded warming and delicious (we are going into winter) and it would be a welcome dish for a simple supper with family as well as a large gathering with friends or even a lighter potluck dish to bring. It’s for a Savoury Vegetable Casserole. It is easily tweaked to make it Vegetarian or Vegan, it can be prepared in advanced and reheated and it is pure comfort food. You can easily substitute whatever root vegetables you have BUT whatever you do please include the parsnip. There is nothing like the aroma of parsnips cooking and their presence elevates this dish. 

Savoury Vegetable Casserole 

3 pounds root vegetables, equal parts small cubes of -parsnip, turnip, carrot, Swede rutabaga, celeriac, leek

1/2 cup butter

2 garlic cloves peeled and crushed into a paste with 1 teaspoon of salt 

8 ounces of finely diced onion

2 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 recipe Savoury breadcrumbs (to follow)

Preheat oven to 350. Melt half of the butter in a pan and fry the garlic paste with salt and the onions over medium high heat until golden in color. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate. Add some of the remaining butter to the pan and sauté the cubes of vegetables in two batches. They should be browned evenly. Move to a casserole dish. I used an oval measuring 13” x 8” x 2.5” approximately. Mix in the onions and garlic well.  Pour the stock of choice over all and bake for 45 minutes. 

Meanwhile make the breadcrumbs. 

1 3/4 cups fine breadcrumbs (I used half breadcrumb and half panko crumbs)

5 tablespoons finely shredded cheddar cheese

1/2 tablespoon chopped parsley

Pinch of English dry mustard powder

Mix all together. (I omitted the parsley since I didn’t have any available)

After 45 minutes of baking time remove the casserole from the oven and sprinkle the breadcrumbs evenly over the top. Return to the oven to brown or put under the broiler. Delish as Bean used to say!

     I used equal parts parsnips, turnip, carrot and Yukon gold potatoes along with three shallots since I didn’t have leeks. And I used a large dice of celery as I didn’t have the celeriac root, it still adds a subtle depth of flavor. I also used a good vegetable stock. I have reheated this dish for other meals and it just gets better. The fragrance of this dish permeates the house in all of its sweetness and earthiness, truly comforting on so many levels. 

     Leafing through this book one really gets the sense of the author and his desire to make people feel relaxed and unhurried. After all that is what a weekend visit is all about. From a leisurely brunch or as he calls it “late, lazy breakfast” with bowls of granola, brown sugar, English honey and yogurt alongside a toaster with good breads that your guests help themselves to...to a pork loin marinated in coconut milk with pineapple for a memorable dinner, or helping oneself to small light sandwiches and a wedge of Orange cake mid afternoon with a steaming cup of Earl Grey to revitalize. And I love any book where the author does not hold back his indignation at the mere thought of using powdered iced tea mix, oh the horror of it! Rather as he says “I make an MGM production number of iced tea”...picking fresh rose petals and sprigs of fresh mint for each cut- glass soda glass complete with silver spoons. It’s all about the details, creating beautiful, special moments.

     The last chapter of the cookbook offers edible gift ideas, little tokens that seal the memories of your guests visits; mini bouquets of fresh herbs and flowers, an herbal vinegar or oil or a jar of date chutney or onion and bell pepper marmalade. Oh and a recipe I’ll have to try for Coconut Cream Fudge which Tovey says he makes in double batches because he admits to eating half by the time his guests leave. Fittingly it is the last recipe in the book. 

     Life is in the details, about creating beautiful, special moments and taking time to truly be present with ourselves and each other. If we learn anything at all from this pandemic let it be to not take anyone or any moment for granted. And that life should be a healthy balance of work and rest, with time to enjoy the details that make life worth living. 

Be safe. Be Beauty. Be that person that brews iced tea the old fashioned way and take the time to savor. Enjoy!