The Colonial Williamsburg Tavern Cookbook

     My mother affectionately known as Bean had many interests besides cooking and one of those was a passion for history, especially colonial. So growing up in New England gave her plenty of opportunity to immerse in that which she loved and marry the two passions with historical cookery. She could spend hours working with old ‘receipts’ and translating them into modern recipes. She normally had a kitchen garden with herbs, a large vegetable garden and she canned and preserved everything. Growing up on a farm with a father who was a hunter she could even dress a deer and butcher any number of animals. Thankfully that was before my time. She also collected antique kitchen equipment from wooden mashers, spoons and rolling pins to a 5’ long bread dough rising bowl, an apple butter stirring paddle and early crocks which she would fill with cucumbers and huge heads of dill to make pickles every summer. And of course she collected cookbooks, the older the better. Here on this blog I am sharing the many cookbooks in her collection, truly her legacy was making people feel welcome, nurtured and loved.

Photo by Tom Eckerle from the cookbook.

     When we were children Mom would pack us up in the car and we would visit colonial Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts and we’d spend quite a bit of time in the Freeman farm kitchen while volunteers in colonial clothing would demonstrate period cooking methods over the large open fireplace. I practically grew up in Sturbridge honestly. Over the years she took us to nearly every historical building, farm and museum in Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island with side trips to New York, Pennsylvania and Vermont. A trip to colonial Williamsburg in Virginia was a given. Williamsburg is a recreation of 18th century America complete with historical buildings, working blacksmiths to coopers, gardens, library, magazine, printing house, and taverns and so much more. The foundations intent is that “the future may learn from the past.”

     This particular cookbook, put out by The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation was published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, New York in 2001. Within its pages are the updated or colonial inspired recipes from four of the taverns found within the village that highlights Southern food history;  Chowning’s, the Kings Arms, Christiana Campbell’s and Shields. Recipes range from cheese wafers to Virginia ham biscuits in the appetizer chapter to celery root slaw and pickled watermelon rind in the salad chapter. Fancy some soft shell crabs with capers or perhaps oyster and lobster pie? Or perhaps peanut pie or fresh berry syllabub (a frothy dessert drink)? This cookbook offers over 200 recipes as well as lovely photographs of Williamsburg and some history. And on a side note Frostie my cat found it quite comfortable to curl up on for a nap while I writing this post!

Frostie cat, helping.

      Taverns were predominantly frequented by men and supplied rooms, meals, drinks and a stable to house the overnight patrons horses. Prices were actually set by colonial laws and courts would issue licenses to tavern operators. There were also laws as to how much alcohol could be consumed on Sunday. Indentured servants, slaves and seamen were not given access though if a sailor could get written permission from his captain he would be allowed entry, basically anyone who could not be sued in case of disorderly conduct could not enter a tavern. College students from William and Mary were also not allowed.

     Dinner, what we call lunch today, was a larger meal which also had fixed prices and they consisted of hearty, simple foods centered around roasted or stewed meats, chicken and fish, seasonal vegetables and potatoes, and bread. Breakfast, depending upon season consisted of cold sliced meats or hash, hot cereal made from coarse cornmeal, called hominy, and tea or coffee. Supper, eaten around eight in the evening was lighter and consisted of leftovers from dinner and were served with a small beer or cider. A larger tavern with perhaps wealthier patrons could supply fancier dinners that served Virginia hams, casseroles, platters of roast fowl, along with pickles, condiments and sauces. Imported wines and ales as well as desserts of pies, puddings, and cakes would also be offered and finished off with fruits and nuts.

     I decided to try the peach cobbler as it is peach season. Cobbler is a fast, easy and delicious way to enjoy seasonal fruits, try it with berries, rhubarb, and pears. 

Peach Cobbler

For the filling
6 cups fresh peaches, pitted and sliced (about 3-4 lbs)
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 tsp lemon juice
Pinch of nutmeg
1/4 tsp cinnamon

For the topping
1 1/2 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
2 tabs sugar
1/4 cup cold butter (1/2 stick) cut into pieces
1 large egg
2/3 cup milk (I always use almond milk)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees and lightly butter a 2qt baking dish

In large bowl  combine peaches, sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice, nutmeg and cinnamon. Stir gently until the cornstarch has dissolved, then pour into baking dish and distribute evenly.

Into a large bowl sift the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Cut in the butter (or you could pulse in a food processor until it looks like crumbs)

In small bowl beat the egg and milk and then stir into the flour mixture until it is just moistened. Do not over stir. Spoon batter over fruit and smooth down. Bake until golden approx 30-35 minutes. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream. Delish as Bean used to say!

Unbaked cobbler waiting to go into oven.

     I like to use a fairly shallow baking dish, just watch your oven depending upon the depth of your dish. I served mine with a dollop of homemade whipped cream. Truly a taste of summer and a wonderful dish no matter the season.

     Enjoy!!