The Caprilands Kitchen Book - Economy Cooking with Herbs

     I have rose-geranium scented memories of Caprilands Herb Farm in Coventry, Connecticut. As a teenager my mother affectionately known as Bean took me there often as we both loved walking on the grounds, exploring the gardens, nosing around the greenhouse and leafing through the many books that it’s founder Adelma Grenier Simmons had written. Dried floral wreaths and bouquets of dried herbs hung in the barn. The 18th century dark salt box house sat nestled amongst ancient trees and the lush landscape. I remember thinking that all of the people scattered here and there beneath the trees and sitting on the ground were like leaves gently resting in the shade. We would walk with rapt attention through the Shakespearean garden, the White garden and the Brides garden and ponder which plants to bring home and grow. There were 33 themed gardens in all. Mrs Simmons, just 5’ tall moved swiftly around the property in her pileolus hat and long cape which made her look as if she was floating. Often she had a large gathering basket on her arm. She was always gracious and smiling and many of her books that I have are signed in her flourishing script. I found her and Caprilands to be a source of inspiration both then and now.

Drying barn at Caprilands.

     A chair at one of her herbal teas or luncheons were so sought after that there was a year long waiting list. Adelma had a vast knowledge of herbal folklore and history and many of her books share this passion. She was known as “The First Lady of Herbs” and was a prolific writer with over forty books to her credit. Besides herbs and cooking, seasonal decorations were very important at Caprilands. Even their draperies, rugs and art work were changed out to reflect the changing seasons. To learn more about Adelma check out my blog Women Inspirit. Here is the link; https://womeninspirit.blogspot.com/2013/09/the-herb-lady-of-coventry.html?m=1

     This little book, “The Caprilands Kitchen Book” was published in 1980 by The Clinton Press of Tolland. Charming wood block print illustrations grace the pages by artist Mary Azarian of Cabot, Vermont showing various scenes of the period kitchen where they lovingly prepared herbal recipes to share with their visitors. The book starts with an extensive list of necessary herbs and spices, ones that they used in the Caprilands kitchen regularly. There are also a few pages of “Old Time Receipts” for such delicacy’s as tansy pancakes, marigold pudding and skirret pie (skirrits were root vegetables similar to small parsnips). Chapters follow on herb butters, canapés, soups and salads, main dishes for meats and chicken, potatoes, vegetable casseroles, Italian and Greek dishes, fish, brunch and egg dishes, breads, cookies, cakes and desserts, and herbal teas and punches.

     Instead of choosing just one recipe to try this time I have chosen to make two recipes from this cookbook. A potato dish, using fresh herbs that I grow, to go with a chicken that I was roasting for dinner last evening. As it is a book about economy as well I decided to also make a dessert as I had strawberries that needed to be used asap! Bean was raised on a farm and learned to be frugal, nothing would be wasted. Her pantry was legendary as was her herb and spice cabinets (yes plural) and she was a master of seasoning and bringing depth to her recipes. That being said this potato recipe is delicious but Bean would have kicked it up a notch! The strawberry dessert is wonderful but actually doesn’t have any added herbs. In the future I would add basil as it really sets off strawberries and I think Adelma would approve.

It’s strawberry season!

     Let’s start with the Strawberry Cottage Delight which is a simple and straightforward recipe. This is not to be confused with modern Cottage Delights. There are no layers of cream or puddings. It is cake similar to shortbread with a fresh strawberry filling. Clean and simple and it is suggested to serve it with fresh macerated strawberries and ice cream on top. At first bite I was reminded of something from my childhood but I couldn’t put my finger on it... then it hit me. It tastes like a fancy pop tart!

Strawberry Cottage Delight

Beat 1 egg with 1 cup of sugar and 1/2 cup softened butter. Sift 1 3/4 cups flour with 3 teaspoons of baking powder directly into bowl and beat until all is combined. It will be stiff. Butter a baking dish and press half of the batter into the bottom.
Prepare 1 pound of strawberries by slicing them into bowl and macerating with a fork. Mix in 1/4 cup sugar. Spread half the strawberries over first layer of batter. Cover with remaining batter. Bake at 350 for forty minutes. Serve with ice cream and the remaining fresh strawberries.  Now honestly I put vanilla non dairy ice cream on mine and completely forgot to ladle more strawberries on top and I didn’t miss them. It’s very flavorful. Again, I love the taste of sweet basil with strawberries so in the future I will add some to this recipe.

Strawberry Cottage Delight before baking.

Cottage Delight baked until golden brown.

A lovely tea time treat still warm from the oven. 

     I decided to try Creamed Potatoes I mean seriously can you ever have enough potato recipes?
And frankly the recipe intrigued me. I thought it would be a good accompaniment to roast chicken.

Creamed Potatoes

6 medium potatoes
1 tsp caraway seeds
Dill weed and parsley (or lovage)
1/2 cup flour
Milk or cream (I used Almond Milk, unsweetened original)
Salt and pepper
1/4 cup melted butter
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

     Boil the potatoes in water in a pot with the caraway seeds added. Now the recipe did not specify peeled or unpeeled so I decided to peel them. Boil them whole until just tender. Remove from water and allow to cool. Then slice them into a well buttered casserole dish. Don’t bother to be neat. Sprinkle with dill weed and the flour, salt and pepper. Spoon the melted butter over all and turn the potatoes until they are all well coated. Pour milk or cream over all to just cover. Sprinkle with grated cheese and parsley (or lovage) and bake for 45 minutes in a 350 degree oven. Side note I love lovage! So I used it instead of parsley, it has a celery like taste. She notes you could also substitute sage leaves for the dill. A hint of garlic would be a nice addition as well. You get just an underlying hint of the caraway seed.

Coat Potatoes in flour and  herbs.

Creamed potatoes just out of the oven.

     The potatoes were very creamy in texture. It is unlike both au gratin or scalloped potatoes even though the techniques are similar. Served along side the roast chicken which I heavily season they were quite delicious.

Creamed potatoes with roast chicken.

     I mentioned before that rather than use parsley I chose to use lovage. Lovage tastes like a stronger celery. You can use the leaves in soups and salads, and eat the stems like celery. Even the roots can be eaten. Lovage is in the carrot family. Just use half of what you would normally of celery because it’s taste is more intense. You can find lovage at better nurseries. The plants can grow to a height of 6’ and are easier to grow than celery.

Lovage plant. 

     Sadly after the death of Adelma Simmons the property was tied up in probate court for over 20 years. I read an article from just last year that the town is now getting estimates of the costs needed in bringing the property back up to its former glory. After so many years of neglect I’m sure it will be no small undertaking but it would truly be a labor of love and a fitting tribute to Adelma Simmons and her life’s work.